HOME PORT MY MODELS > LOBSTER SMACK > DAY SAILER > SMUGGLER > SAILING SCOW > CRABBING SKIFF > DORA BELLA > JOLLY BOAT > BLUENOSE II > ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP > COLONIAL FERRY > COLONIAL FERRY 2 > CRAB SCRAPING BOAT > EMMA C. BERRY > ALMA > HANNAH > LARK > CLERMONT > NANTUCKET > PINKY SCHOONER > BUYBOAT > FLATTIE > ROUND STERN > BOATSHOP DIORAMA > POWER SKIFF

> DRAKETAIL

KITS FOR NOVICES TOOLS TECHNIQUES MUSEUMS LINKS ABOUT ME

Round-Stern Workboat

July 25, 2018
I have been working on the boatshop diorama off and on, but it hasn't been sparking my interest very much lately, so I've decided to get back to boat building. I don't intend to abandon the boatshop. I'll work on it from time to time while things are drying or what not on this boat.

I'm using plans from Wye River Models although I am enlarging them by 150% so this boat will be at 1:16. LOA will be about 32", which will make it about the same length as my round-stern although narrower in beam (roughly 5-5/8"). I also plan to change the cabin configuration. I want to add a small upper section with some windows. The WRM plans are very simplistic, so I'm sure I'll be making other mods as I go along.

Today, I got the enlarged keel cut out and the strongbacks cut to length. They are not yet glued into the keel. Just sitting there for purposes of the picture.

Enlarged Keel
Enlarged Keel
Keel & Strongbacks
Keel & Strongbacks

July 27, 2018

Oh, these plans! Possibly the worst I've ever seen. Below are just two examples of many. In the picture on the right, the darker portion is the shape of the stern support as drawn on Template Sheet. Sitting on top of it is the drawing of the stern support from the sheer plan on Sheet 1. The bottom of each is aligned. That's where the support would be glued to the keel, Clearly they are much different. And who knows which (if either) is correct? I decided to go with the one on the sheer plan. Fingers crossed.

Stern Support     Strongback

In the picture on the left, I'm showing where a side plank is supposed to lie on the outside edges of the strongbacks. As you can see on the one in the middle (#4) it is much wider than it should be and a considerable amount will have to be cut off. At first, I thought I'd swapped two strongbacks when gluing them in - #4 and #5 are very close to the same size. But, careful measuring shows that's not the case and laying then over the plans, I can see they match the drawing. But #4 is certainly wrong and drawn that way. I expect to do a bit of fairing on any hull, but this is ridiculous.

Also, I haven't shown bulkhead 1. It is curved on each side so that it defines the flare at the bow. Turns out the two sides are not at all symmetrical. Very sloppily drawn. Plus the template drawing shows it is notched at the bottom, when it fact, it should be solid because it fits into a notch in the keel.

I built a crab scrape from Wy River plans several years ago and while I expected very simplistic plans for the draketail, I didn't expect them to be so badly done. Very disappointing. I do NOT recommend this boat for any modeler who doesn't have a good deal of experience or access to help from someone who does. Sigh. Moving on.

July 28, 2018
I now have the deck cut out and glued on and am working on the frames. Before I glued the deck in place, I made some support for the staving on the underside of the deck at the stern. I just felt like it would make things easier when I plank that area.

I ran into another issue with the instructions. Step 4 says to put a side plank along the outside ends of the strongbacks. Now, there is no mention anywhere about the ends of the strongbacks, so one assumes they should be perpendicular to the top - that is, squared off.. So if you put on a side plank at this point, you're going to wind up with it being also perpendicular to the top of the strongback. That would be wrong! When you get to adding the frames in Step 6, you'll discover that the ends of the strongbacks have to be cut to the same angle as the frames. See the picture below. Fortunately, I realized the issue before I glued on that bottom plank, so I decided to install the frames first. That way, I can sand down the angle of the strongback exactly to match the angle of the frame. Adding the frames takes some time and care, so it will take a few more hours to get them on.

Frame
Frame
Staving Support
Staving Support

July 30, 2018
Once I got the deck glued on and started adding frames, I suddenly became aware of a big problem. The frames on the port side were sitting at a different angle than those on the starboard side. The deck was off-center, but It took me a long time to figure out why and I had to remove the deck and frames to find the problem. The first thing was the stern support was not perfectly perpendicular to the keel. It leaned over toward the starboard side a bit. The second problem there was a short section of the deck that was about 1mm wider on one side than the other. And the third problem was that the keel itself was slightly warped.

In the end, I wound up making a sort of upside-down build board. The heavy, upper part holds the keel straight. I also glued on upright supports to keep the stern support and stem perpendicular to the keel. Then, when I finally glued the deck back on, I was VERY careful to assure that it was centered from side to side.

Build Board

So, basically, it was just plain sloppy work on my part. I simply should have been more careful as I assembled things. Amazing how small errors can compound quickly into large problems! A couple of days wasted but I'm much happier with things now.

August 2, 2018
The boat is all framed in now and I no longer need the build board. The hull is looking MUCH better and the deck is nicely centered over the keel. I got the stern staving on yesterday afternoon and this morning. This afternoon, I started working on the bottom planking. That will likely take a couple of days to complete.

Hull
Hull
Hull
Hull
Stern Staving
Stern Staving
Bottom Planking
Bottom Planking

August 11, 2018
It took a while, but the last hull plank went on at 3:30 this afternoon. Looks pretty ugly right now, but once I do a bit of sanding and add a few strategic dabs of filler, it should look OK. Of course, painting it will help hide it all as well. Can't say I really enjoyed planking this one and I'm glad to have this part behind me. The instructions call for adding the coamings and cabin next, but I will likely do the rub rails and toe rails first. Seems easier to me because there's less chance of damaging the cabin.

Planked Hull